Gulling on the Niagara River

Contributed by Kurt Fox
Some detail on sites and species by Sharon Skelly
and GeneseeBirds-L posts (particularly Willie D'Anna)

Rating

Late Fall Winter
Spring Summer

Site history/background

Niagara Falls is better known as the honeymoon capitol of the world. The spectacular Niagara Falls is one of the seven wonders of the world and is the largest falls (by water volume) in the world. The waterfalls can be seen on both sides of the river, but (in my opinion) the best viewing of the falls itself is done from the "Canadian side."

The Niagara River connects Lake Erie to Lake Ontario and passes by the cities of Buffalo and Niagara Falls. Few automobile bridges connect the United States and the Canadian sides of the river. Several small islands lie in the river itself, the largest being Grand Island.

Aside from the viewing charm of the waterfalls itself, birders acknowledge the river as the best place in North America to watch gulls. The large volumes of rapid and turbulent waters keep much of the river open in the winter months. The open waters in winter attract the gulls and waterfowl. It has recently been nominated as the first Important Bird Area in Kingbird Region 1.

Viewing is better from the Canadian side. Most gull-watchers frequent the Canadian side; if a rare gull has been seen, it is easier for word to be passed along. The New York side is very industrial and built up, with fewer opportunities to stop and look along the river. Keep in mind gulls and terns feed in open water and are attracted to churning water.

An upcoming ABA Guide to Metro Areas will provide a detailed description of where to bird on the river.

Warnings

  • Crossing the Peace Bridge is crossing international lines. The customs agents are familiar with birders crossing over for a day of birding and you can mention this fact to the customs agent. Since 11 Sept 2001, security has been increased. The official line is: you must have personal ID such as a Birth Certificate or documentation proving status as a resident alien. For many people, most of the time, they do not even ask to see ID. However, they can and DO ask to see ID ; and if you are not prepared, you risk not crossing international lines (making a long trip for nothing). If you are a foreign citizen, be sure to bring along proper identification!

  • Several tolls exist for crossing bridges and such. Be prepared to have lots of change readily available for faster crossing. Current toll rates at Lewiston/Queenston bridge is $2.50 (US).

  • Restrooms are few and far between. Use them appropriately.

    Regular Specialties

    Wintering and migrant gulls of many species (19 gull species have been recorded on the river) - Herring and Ring-billed are year-round regulars with Great Black-backed and Bonaparte's being common regular wintering residents. Lesser Black-backed can be expected in small numbers (sometimes double digits) in November and December.
    Terns - Common, Forster's, Black (pre-migration staging in September and October)
    Wintering Waterfowl - Red-Breasted and Hooded Mergansers, Mallards, Am Wigeon, Common Goldeneye, Scaup, Grebes, Loons, Canvasbacks and Redheads
    Misc - Snowy Owls; Purple Sandpipers; Phalaropes; Peregrine Falcon (nested as recently as 2000).

    Noteworthy Records

    Regular Larids (recorded every year, probably every trip) - Bonaparte's, Ring-billed, Herring, Great Black-backed, Lesser Black-backed
    Uncommon Larids (recorded every year, not every trip) - Little, Iceland, Glaucous, Thayer's *, California **
    Rare Larids (not necessarily recorded every year) - Black-legged Kittiwake, Sabine's, Franklin's, Laughing, Common Black-headed
    Very Rare Larids (very few records) - Mew, Slaty-backed (recorded only once), Ross's
    Waterbirds - E. Wigeon (2000), Harlequin Duck (2000), Barrow's Goldeneye, both eiders, Pacific Loon (Nov 11, 1995), "Arctic" Loon (Nov 24, 1996), Western Grebe, alcids (distant past), N Gannet (Nov 17, 1995), Long-tailed Jaeger (Sep 8, 1996), Red and Red-necked Phalaropes

    Non-avian Interest: Look for the squirrels. They are a black phase of the Gray Squirrel.

    * Some authorities do not think that Thayer's can be identified in the field. Some authorities do, but do not think that Thayer's is a legitimate species. Regardless, careful identification of all field marks is required.
    ** California Gull was not identified at the river until 1992. However, it has been found every year since, sometimes more than one individual. Generally speaking, it is first found about mid-November, and may be seen sporadically for 2-4 weeks thereafter. It is most often found sitting atop the Robert Moses Power Plant.

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    Gulls on the Niagara River

    Areas of Interest

    Several spots along the Niagara River come into mind, most with several names for each place (which can confuse the beginning gullwatcher). A "virtual tour" is provided for a northbound Canadian route and a southbound American route .

    Canadian side

    Upper River

  • Peace Bridge

    Targets Bonaparte's Gull are usually present here, but one hopes to find Sabine's, Black-headed or Black-legged Kittiwake among them.
    Discussion: This can be a particularly good place to stop since the Peace Bridge is near the source of the Niagara River (Lake Erie). Gulls that may otherwise congregate over Lake Erie may gather here. Sometimes strong SW winds blow gulls into this area. Start at the Peace Bridge at Fort Erie, Ontario . If starting in the USA, cross the Peace Bridge into Ontario, paying attention to the warnings mentioned above. After passing the Customs inspection checkpoint booth, turn right immediately (almost a U-turn around the customs building) to drive down Queen Street to get to the Niagara River (less than a 0.5 mile). A small public parking lot exists here. Stop and scan beneath the Peace Bridge. This site is opposite Squaw Island.

    There are a few parking/fishing areas just as you drive north along the scenic route (Niagara River Parkway). There are several parking/fishing areas all along the scenic route. One such stop is Nichol's Marina where late terns might be found. The International Railroad Bridge is another location where small gulls gather. Gulls and terns may be seen from any of these spots, but primarily in the one mile stretch between Peace Bridge and the International Railroad Bridge.

    Travel north along the Niagara River Parkway (about 15 mi or 25 km) until the first stop sign. Along the way, one can stop to view interesting birds, which may include Tundra Swans in the vicinity of Motor/Strawberry Islands at the southern end of Grand Island, and Bald Eagles at Navy Island at the northern end of Grand Island. At the first stop sign (which is in Chippewa, Ont.), turn right, cross over the bridge over Chippewa Creek and turn right immediately (back onto the Niagara River Parkway) at the stop light.

    Mid-River

    At "the falls" area itself, there are a several vantage points and any area overlooking the river holds gulling possibilities.

  • Flood Control Gates

    Targets: A must stop for the large gulls. Lesser Black-backed Gull is often found here. "White-winged" gulls are found frequently. California Gull can sometimes be found perched on the rocks or cement piers.
    Discussion: The control gates are the large obvious structure jutting into the river, about a mile or less above the falls. Two parking lots exist above the falls overlooking the flood control gates (one lot is just above and one is just below the control structures). Check the upriver side for waterfowl and downriver side for gulls and waterfowl. From here, one can look at the gulls perched on the concrete structures, or perched mid-river on the rocks, or flying about the rapids above the falls. Be sure to scan the waterfowl for rarities (such as Barrow's Goldeneye), and watch the skies for Peregrine Falcon. Kings Bridge Park is a half mile up river from the control gates.

  • Continue north to the Gate House . "The Gate House (small structure), about 300 yards downriver from the pulloff on the downriver side of the control gates. This can be a good place to get out of southwesterly winds. Great for large gulls. Bonys are usually across the river from here, occasionally with a Little Gull. Male Hooded Merganser has been seen here with goldeneyes." - Courtesy Willie D'Anna (GeneseeBirds Nov 2001 post) Continue north to the Ontario Hydro building (large structure) above the falls, about 300 yards downriver from the Gate House.

  • Ontario Hydro building

    Targets: More large gulls - same as Flood Control Gates.
    Discussion: The rapids at the brink of the falls are prevalent at the barge and many large gulls can seen. The location immediately at the brink of the falls is referred to by many names, as simple as "above the falls" or other names such as the "barge" , the Ontario Hydro building (also known as the "engineerium" ), the greenhouse which is also known as the conservatory . (A note on all the name; decades ago, the barge broke loose from a pier in a storm and became grounded just above the falls where it has stayed ever since.) Be sure to scan the river on both sides of the Ontario Hydro building. Check for Purple Sandpipers (seen in Nov 2001) among the rocks above the barge. Red phalarope has been found just upriver from the building. A Snowy Owl (seen in Nov 2001) might be seen amongst the rocks.
    Parking and restrooms: Two lots are here: one without a fee, one with a weekend fee. One small parking lot (no parking fee) is on the east side of the road (northbound lane) just north of the Ontario Hydro building. Another larger parking lot (parking fee only charged on weekends) is across the street from the Ontario Hydro building. Also across the street from the Ontario Hydro building is a greenhouse (also known as the conservatory). Noteworthy here is the restrooms that are available in the greenhouse. The greenhouse offers a break from the weather (which can become brutal in December), plus the bonus of having free-flying tropical birds in the greenhouses. It is like a touch of the tropics.

  • The "Falls"

    Targets: More large gulls - same as Flood Control Gates, plus Franklin's Gull, Sabine's Gull (2000), Little Gull (2000)
    Discussion: Downriver from the barge is the world-renowned set of falls (the American Falls and the spectacular Horseshoe Falls). It is hard to get good viewing conditions at the falls itself because the lighting is seldom optimal for viewing gulls and other birds. But, the stop is can be great for gulls and odd waterfowl; and at least, worth a look at the falls itself. This is sometimes called "the gorge". Gulls perch on the rocks and waters near the Maid of the Mist docks near the Canadian shoreline. Be sure to scan the river all the way down to the Rainbow bridge , as Franklin's Gull sometimes lingers down that far. Eiders, Harlequin Ducks, Barrow's Goldeneye, both phalaropes, and Pacific Loon have been seen below the falls.

    Falls Parking Situation

    Be aware that there is currently (2001) no free parking in the vicinity of the falls on the Canadian side, unlike all years previous to 1999. The area that normally has free parking along the road (across from the American Falls) is adjacent to the edge of the gorge is no longer available. Option 2 seems the most inviting since most birders will make a stop there anyways.

    Option 1 Pay for parking. On the Canadian side, a pay parking lot is next to the Canadian Falls has rates are $9 Canadian on Oct 24, 1990 for many hours or 10 minutes, plat rate. (On the USA side, the lot near the Falls on Goat Island is $5 US.). Note: you will still have to walk up to 3/8 mile to reach the edge of the gorge.

    Option 2 Park upriver and walk downstream (a long and possibly wet walk). One can park at the greenhouse/engineerium above the falls or the small lot next to the Ontario Hydro building across the street from the greenhouse. It is about 1/2 to 3/4 mile to the "falls area" from there.

    Option 3 Park downriver and walk upstream. This is, again, about a 1/2 to 3/4 mile hike to the "falls area".

    Option 4 Carpool. Have the driver drop off a number of observers at the falls area and only the driver can park and walk from either upstream or downstream.

    Option 5 Park illegally and risk paying a stiff parking fee.

    Option 6 Try to view the gorge below the falls from Goat Island on the American side. Trees can be problem for a thorough check, however. And, you will pay to cross back across international lines.

    After touring the mid-river area, continue traveling north along the Niagara River Parkway. The Rainbow bridge is a seldom-used international crossing that may be devoid of large lines of traffic. However, it is not always manned and open. I am not sure if the 11 Sep 2001 events have changed the availability of this bridge crossing. From the Rainbow bridge, travel 1.75 miles north to the Whirlpool area.

  • Whirlpool

    Targets: Rarer smaller gulls among the Bonaparte's Gulls.
    Discussion: The Whirlpool can be viewed from the south and/or the north sides, and the better side is dependent upon the lighting (sun direction) and presence of gulls. (Often times, both sites are worth checking). Best viewing is from the overlook platforms of the cable car. A cable car (Spanish Aero Car) runs from one parking area on the south side over the whirlpool to the north side. Tickets for tourists (the cable car does not yield better birding views) can only be purchased at the south side. In recent years, Ross's, Black-legged Kittiwake (1999, 2000), Laughing Gull (1999), Black-headed (2001) have been found. Bonaparte's Gulls are prevalent here.

    After viewing the Whirlpool area, continue traveling north along the Niagara River Parkway.

  • Ontario Hydro Access Road

    Warning: Birding access must be obtained each year. I am not sure of the access to this area after 11 Sep 2001. This site is mentioned here in the event that it is open to the birding public.
     Targets: California Gull or other large gulls.
    Discussion: Despite the signs, birders have been told by Ontario Hydro that they are allowed to go down this road (as of 1999; not sure about subsequent years). This is just upriver from the power plants. The rocks are along the NY shore and always have gulls on them unless fishermen or hikers have scared them off. Nearly every year, California Gull is seen roosting on the rocks. These rocks are often in NY waters. These rocks might (?) be viewed from the parking area by the butterfly conservatory just north of the Ontario Hydro Access Road.
    Directions: The Ontario Hydro Access Road is just north of the "Feather in the Glen" gift shop and across from the golf course, which is about one mile south of the Adam Beck overlook. Simply take the Ontario Hydro access road (dirt/gravel) down into the gorge to the small gravel parking area on your left. Look across the river onto the rocks from there.

    Beck

  • Sir Adam Beck

    Targets: All the gulls can be found here, but large gulls dominate the site from mid-season through the winter. California Gull is quite consistent here.
    Discussion: Sir Adam Beck (or "Beck" ) is the hydro station between the falls and Queenston. This is often the premier spot to be situated late in the day (due to lighting and due to the fact that the large gulls can easily be studied in flight). It has also been deemed the best place to look for California Gull , which likes to perch atop the Moses power plant across the river. Beck is a much easier location to get the white-wings (Thayer's, Iceland and Glaucous) than the falls. When you are at Beck, you actually look across the river at the American side at the Robert Moses Power Plant . There is a parking lot (the Adam Beck overlook) adjacent to the Sir Adam Beck on the south side of the Sir Adam Beck hydro station. If it is peak season, you will likely see other birders here.

  • "The Sir Adam Beck - north overlook is worth checking for more gulls in flight and more birds perched along the NY shoreline. It is a small overlook on the north edge of the Sir Adam Beck hydro building, about 200 yards north of large/south overlook. One can park on the west side of the road near the building and walk across to view over the railing." - Courtesy Willie D'Anna (GeneseeBirds Nov 2001 post)

    Lower River

  • Queenston, Ontario

    Targets: Rarer smaller gulls among the Bonaparte's Gulls. Little Gull is annual and fairly regular here, especially downriver from the boat ramp (use a scope).

    Discussion: After viewing the Beck area, continue traveling north along the Niagara River Parkway. You will pass under the Lewiston/Queenston bridge (the sign reads "Bridge to USA"). After passing the big bend at the floral clock, you will see the Brock Monument (a granite figure on a very tall pillar). You will be driving straight towards it. At the intersection, turn right, keeping the river on your right. Continue north descend downhill. Near the bottom, you will pass an intersection. The road flattens out (you are now in Queenston). Pass Kent and Partition streets, but turn right on Dumfries Street. Take Dumfries to the end, which is Front St. Straight ahead is the dirt path (veering right/south) leading to the Queenston Boat Ramp. Take this road to the parking area at the end. Park and walk along the edge of the river up towards the hydro stations. Trees often obscure the view but viewing spots exist. Be careful of your footing if you choose to walk this route. You can not reach the hydro stations, but can get quite close. The round trip walk from the parking lot up and back is nearly a mile. You will be nearly at eye-level with many of the flying gulls. This is opposite the Artpark area near Lewiston.

    Returning towards Front/Dumfries St, the road Y's, and a bumpy drive (a sign reads "Drive at your own risk") along the river provides a stopping point midway at a place called the "sandpile" or the sand docks . Further up is a vantage point looking right across at Lewiston, NY . One can look from the overlooks by the road adjacent to Brocks Monument. The river can also be viewed from docks in Lewiston. A recent quote by a birder, "this is the absolute best spot along the river to see Little Gulls." Black-legged Kittiwake (2001), Black-headed (2001), or Sabine's Gulls (2001) are the more regularly reported gulls.

  • Niagara-on-the-Lake

    Targets: Massive Bonaparte's Gull exodus. Rarer smaller gulls among the Bonaparte's Gulls.
    Discussion: Just before dusk, one may head to Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont. (or Fort Niagara State Park in NY) to look at some of the outbound gulls and search for ducks (lots of Oldsquaw) at the mouth of the river. Western Grebe, jaegers, eiders, and alcids have been reported here over the years. From the Canadian side check the Fort Niagara for the possibility of Snowy Owl near the waterline.

    American side

    For those not wishing to cross international lines, several spots along the Niagara River occur on the American (NYS) side of the river analogous to the Canadian side, although they may not provide as nice lighting conditions or viewing options. Directions are provided below. This route will start at the north end (Lake Ontario) and proceed south to Lake Erie. As this route is not used as often by birders, the descriptions here will be brief.

    Fort Niagara State Park

    Fort Niagara State Park offers the same sunset Bonaparte's exodus possibilities as Niagara-on-the-Lake . Additionally, the park has many tall oaks, which are the home to (possibly year-round) Red-headed Woodpeckers, and ornamental fruit trees near the entrance and along the seaway trail, which may hold Bohemian Waxwing (nearly annual) or Pine Grosbeaks (as recent as 2001). Check the fruiting trees before the (unmanned) toll both for waxwings and grosbeaks. Winter finches move along the Lake Ontario shoreline and might be heard passing overhead or stopping briefly in the park. All the passerines are hit-or-miss. I believe that public restrooms are available within the park.

    After spending time at Fort Niagara State Park, continue south on the Robert Moses Parkway (follow the ample signs from the state park to reach the parkway). Watch for Rough-legged Hawks or waxwing flocks as you drive towards Lewiston.

    Lewiston docks

    Exit the Robert Moses Parkway at Lewiston (on Route 104/18F exit). From the exit ramp, turn right (west) into Lewiston. Take it all the way to the river to the Lewiston boat launch docks. Public parking is available here. This area offers the same gulling possbilities as Queenston . Be sure to check upriver as much as possible. A scope is often necessary. Trees may partially obstruct views, but moving along the river, or down to the docks may provide better views. One can also look at the river from Earl W. Brydges Artpark (or just called "Artpark"), which is also in Lewiston.

    After spending time at Lewiston, return to the Robert Moses Parkway and continue south. If you are intending to cross into Canada, pay close attention to the road signs as it can get confusing. Sticking to the American side, continue south on the Robert Moses Parkway.

    You will pass over the Robert Moses Hydro plant. A pedestrian bridge over the road indicates the Power Vista. The public may see the Robert Moses Hydro plant from access on the overlook here. Access is free, but you must enter the building and pass a guard. It may offer viewing of the hydro plants similar to Sir Adam Beck with a differnt angle on the gulls and lighting conditions. Since the Sept 11, 2001 events, the power plant has received threats. Birding access may be dependent upon the guards on duty (scopes may look like surveillance cameras). Be polite.

    After passing the Power Vista, continue south on the Robert Moses Parkway for about 0.7 miles to the Devil's Hole State Park entrance.

    Devil's Hole State Park

    Two entrances exist for the Devil's Hole State Park. Pull off in the north entrance. Walk over to the edge of the gorge and look down and to the right (toward the power plants). The rocks are along the NY shore and always have gulls on them unless fishermen or hikers have scared them off. Looking into the gorge, you are looking at the rocks opposite the Ontario Hydro Access Road . These rocks are in NY waters. Look for California and other large gulls.

    After looking here, continue south to the other entrance (about 1.2 miles). Pull in here and park. I believe that public restrooms are here. Walk towards the river. Although trees may obscure some views, plenty of opportunities exist for looking at the Whirlpool and the same variety of gulls the might be found here.

    American Falls

    After viewing Devil's Hole, turn right (south) onto the Robert Moses Parkway and continue south for about 2.3 miles to the Rainbow bridge (Niagara Street). Again, if you are intending to cross into Canada on the Rainbow bridge, pay close attention to the road signs as it can get confusing. Sticking to the American side, continue south (the Robert Moses Parkway becomes Rainbow Blvd as you pass over Niagara St). One can pay and park in the Niagara Falls State Park area to look for the same gulls found in the gorge below as on the Canadian side - just follow the signs. There are minimal viewing spots at the falls, but public access exists.

    Alternately, one can continue to attempt to view the falls area from Goat Island , just above the falls. Trees can be problem for a thorough check, but spots do exist for viewing. Unusual passerines and other migrants are here that make the local hotlines. From the Niagara Falls State Park, continue south on Rainbow Blvd to 1st street (less than 0.25 miles from Niagara St). Turn right (west) onto 1st St, cross the American Rapids Bridge to Goat Island (Niagara Reservation State Park). The access road circles the island. View where parking and opportunities present themselves.

    Grand Island

    After checking out Goat Island, cross the American Rapids Bridge to the mainland. Turn right (on the the Niagara Falls State Park entrance road, or ahead on Rainbow Blvd) and continue south. After exitting the park, or coming from Rainbow Blvd, merge onto the Robert Moses Parkway and continue south (actually heading east via the compass) for 3 miles to the I-190. Take I-190 south over the bridge to Grand Island ($0.50 (US) fee). Viewing spots (mostly for waterfowl and/or passerines) can be had on Grand Island (near the bridges) at Buckhorn Island State Park at the north end and Beaver Island State Park at the south end. Otherwise, cross Grand Island and the other bridge (no fee) and continue south towards the Peace Bridge.

    Squaw Island

    Squaw Island is bounded by the Black Rock Canal to the east and the Niagara River to the west. It is located at the foot of West Ferry Street, off Niagara Street (NYS Route 266). Cross the Ferry Street lift bridge over the canal, and park to the right. Walk downriver along the Bike Path to the Sewage Plant and the RR Bridge, or upriver to the Bird Island Pier.

    Exit the I-190 at Exit 11 (just over 11 miles from entering the I-190) at the Scajaquada Expressway (I-198) and immediately exit onto Niagara St. Head south on Niagara St for 0.9 miles to West Ferry Street. Turn right (west) on West Ferry Street and take it to the end. This is Squaw Island and is opposite the Peace Bridge area. The Peace Bridge and International Railroad Bridge can be seen from here (the latter actually crosses onto Squaw Island). The pier heading south off Squaw Island is the Bird Island Pier . The long pier can be walked to reach areas up and downriver. Broderick Park is also on Squaw Island.

    After birding the area, return to Niagara St and head south (right) on Niagara St for 1.1 miles to Porter Ave. Turn right onto Porter Ave and take it to the end (0.8 miles). This is actually Lasalle Park on Lake Erie on the Buffalo waterfront/Buffalo Harbor area. Gulls (and sometimes shorebirds or Snowy Owl) concentrate on the piers, especially with strong SW winds.

    One can circle Lasalle Park back to Porter Ave and back to the I-190 to the Peace Bridge or points elsewhere.

    Directions

    Located in the Delorme NYS Atlas and Gazetteer on several pages and blocks.

    The Areas of Interest (above) is a "virtual tour" starting from the Peace Bridge on the Canadian side. If you live in Buffalo, you know how to get there. For those out of the region, travel the thruway [Interstate 90 (I-90 "eye-90")] ... not to be confused with the regional Interstate 190 ("one-90") in Buffalo ... to Buffalo. From the I-90 ("eye-90"), take the 190 ("one-90") west and exit at the Canada/Peace Bridge. Just follow the abundant road signs.

    Nearby Birding

    All of Ontario

    Hamilton Ontario

    Restroom Facilities

    Restrooms are few and far between. Use them appropriately. At the "barge", the greenhouse/conservatory offers a break from the elements as well as restrooms.

    Best Birding

    Fall through winter provides the best time for gulls, with the most variety in mid- to late- November. Don't miss it.

    Rest of the year: This site is primaily for gulls and these are the routes to take. Other WNY Birding web pages describe sites along this route for non-gull-watching activities.

    This page was last updated on 10 Dec 2001.

    Comments or questions regarding this page should be sent to Webmaster.
    Copyright, © Kurt Fox, 1999-2001.
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