Letchworth State Park

Rating

Fall Winter
Spring Summer

Site history/background

The "Grand Canyon of the East" is a incredibly beautiful and scenic state park featuring a 17 mile gorge with up to 600 foot cliffs, dozens of waterfalls, old growth forests and the largest dam east of the Mississippi. One can not imagine a more beautiful place to bird. It was established in 1907 when William Pryor Letchworth donated 1000 acres around the "High Falls" area to the state. Currently encompassing 14,340 acres, the park is rich in Native American heritage and colonial history from Red Jacket, Mary Jemison, William Prior Letchworth to the Genesee River canal and railroad lore. Volumes have been written on the topic and it is not covered here.

The park runs the length of the Genesee River from Portageville down to the Mount Morris Dam, totalling about 22 miles. All west-side entrances have toll booths (with a minimal fee, i.e.: $5.00/car, which is day use and will admit you and re-admit you to the park throughout the day). The Castile Entrance is open year-round, but the other entrances are closed in the winter.

A map of the park and its footpaths (including a branch of the Finger Lakes Trail) should be available from the toll booths at the park entrances. The map will show the 66 miles of hiking trails and 50 miles of XC Skiing trails; plenty of space to find a bird of your own. A checklist of the birds of Letchworth State Park exists and may also be available at the entrances. If the map and checklist are not available at the entrance, they can be obtained at the visitor's center just south of the Castile entrance. A branch of the Finger Lakes Trail runs through Letchworth. This large park can not be completely birded in one day (probably not even a week). Letchworth SP has recorded about 225 species of birds with close to 140 nesters, including about 25 species of warblers. There are lots of habitats within and nearby the park boundaries. One might divide the park into three manageable birding zones: the east side of the gorge, consisting of old farmland and grasslands along River Road; the west side of the gorge, which consists of the brushy, shrubby north end; and the flora/faunally rich, maturely forested south end.

The park naturalist, Doug Bassett, is an expert on anything related to this park. Call, or visit, the park headquarters and ask Mr. Bassett about any nagging nature-related questions. Under the direction of Mr. Bassett, a crew of volunteers covers most of the park's trails and roads at least once, sometimes twice, in spring and early summer to complete a survey of nesting warblers and other interesting species. This survey has been made annually for several years and the results have proved fruitful and interesting. Also, the Letchworth-Silver Lake Christmas Bird Count covers parts of Letchworth SP.

Cabins, camping sites with electric and other comforts are available within the park boundaries for those desiring longer stays. For more information about the park, contact:

Jayne McLaughlin, Park Manager
Letchworth SP
Castile, NY 14427-1124
(716) 493-3603 or TDD (716) 493-3070

Best Birding

Summer is excellent for breeders, especially at the south end. Nearly every Breeding Bird Atlas block during the 1980-1985 exceeded 100 species. One block reached 119 species - only one of 6 blocks in the state exceeding 116 species. Winter offers the specialties of overwintering Turkey Vultures and the potential of "winter finches" near the visitor's center, although accessibility to the park is a problem. Cross-country skis or snowshoes might help).

Warnings

The gorge and the river are dangerous. Deaths from amateur climbers and swimming in the river occur annually. Please obey all precautionary signs. The roads are very snake-like in spots and icy in winter. Please obey all road signs as well. Portions of the gorge are inhabited by the Eastern Timber Rattlesnake, and poison ivy is everywhere in the gorge. Be watchful of your footsteps near the edge of the gorge. Also, the park feature the Letchworth Arts and Crafts Show Columbus Day weekend can draw crowds of over 100,000 visitors. On October weekends, traffic is peak as this is the center of the fall foliage spectacle and the weekend is better spent enjoying the colors and hues of the leaves than the birds.

Additional Notes

Bring a picnic basket and enjoy the park and all it has to offer.

Regular Specialties

Warblers, Warblers, Warblers. In a small area of the south end of the park, at least twenty-five species of warblers have been recorded nesting within the park boundaries. Over thirty species of warblers have been recorded in the park (including the very rare Swainson's Warbler). Hooded Warblers are the most common warbler in the park, and perhaps the most common neotropical (or maybe any) bird in season. Many of the more "Northern" warblers can be found off the Dishmill and Mary Jemison trails. Harder to find near the Rochester and the Great Lakes plains, the Louisianna Waterthrush is commonly found in appropriate habitat. Additionally, Yellow-Breasted Chat is often found.

Douglas Bassett has recorded 25 species of confirmed breeding warblers in Letchworth State Park. In fact these have all been found in only 7 square miles. Prothonotary Warbler only bred in 1986. Northern Waterthrush has only bred two years since 1980. Other warblers that have not bred every year are Golden-winged Warbler, Nashville Warbler, Parula Warbler, Black-throated Blue Warbler, Prairie Warbler, and Yellow-breasted Chat. Nobody could confirm the Yellow-throated Yarbler in 1999. Both hybrids of the Blue-winged/Golden-winged have been nesters. Other warblers to be on the lookout for breeding include Worm-eating Warbler and Kentucky Warbler. Therefore it appears that 28 species would be the ultimate maximum as breeders in the park. Douglas Bassett would be interested to know if more than 25 breeding species have been recorded in 7 square miles elsewhere in the world. If they have, Doug would expect it would be within 200 miles of the Great Lakes.

Grassland birds. On the east side of the park off River Road (actually outside the park) is great for grassland birds. Species regularly recorded include: Savannah, Vesper's, Grasshopper and Henslow's Sparrows. Bobolinks, Eastern Meadowlark and American Kestrel. An evening walk might produce American Woodcock and Common Snipe. Sedge Wren has been found here.

Acadian Flycatchers. On the east side of the park at the end of River Road and Dygert Road is the entrance to the Dishmill Creek trail. This trail leads down to Dishmill Creek (the left branch at the 'chicken-foot'). Acadian Flycatchers have nested here for several years and are regularly found.

Miscellania. Barred Owls, as well as Screech and Great-Horned Owls are permanent residents, as are all of the local picids, including Pileated Woodpecker. Yellow-Bellied Sapsucker may be found nesting in the Dishmill and Mary Jemison areas. Turkey Vultures are common in the gorge throughout the warmer months and some are expected to over-winter in the area at Inspiration Point (just past the new visitor's center near the year-round Castile entrance). A Black Vulture overwintered here in the winter 1995-1996. Yellow-throated Warbler remained in the area for over 6 weeks near the Lower Falls area in 1999. A rare Swainson's Warbler was found one spring near Dishmill Creek.

Areas of interest

West Side (North of the Perry Entrance)

The Mount Morris Dam was built between 1948 and 1954. It is the largest gravity fed concrete dam east of the Mississippi River. A new visitor's center for the dam has been built on the east side. Tours of the dam can be arranged. The "Hogsback" can be viewed from the east side.

Around the Mount Morris Dam, Turkey Vultures, Chimney Swifts and swallows are regularly seen. The flood waters held back by the dam usually have some waterfowl in early spring. The shrubby habitat is great for Common Yellowthroat, Yellow, and Blue-Winged Warblers. Near the Mount Morris (west side) entrance, near the intersection of Upper Mt Morris Road, check near the power lines for Prairie Warbler that has been found in that area on the nesting survey a few times. A lucky observer may produce a Golden-Winged Warbler, or one of the hybrids ("Brewster's" or "Lawrence's" Warblers) along the roadside.

Yellow-Breasted Chats prefer the dense under-tangle of new growth, especially that which occurs near the high watermark produced by the dam. The killed-off vegetation from the high water yields the new growth undertangle which they desire. Thus, they can sometimes be found in the 30 mile linear swath that is only 200 yards wide. Few trails traverse this swath, but Trail 15, in June, has been the most productive trail for them. Trails 14, 17, and 16 have held Yellow-Breasted Chats in the past as well.

During the colder months, the area below the dam sometimes offers open water not available elsewhere. Canada Geese and Common Mergansers are the most common waterfowl seen here, but other waterbirds (including Brant in February) have been found here.

West Side (South of the Perry Entrance)

Everywhere is pleasing. The scenery is incredible at all times of the year. Louisiana Waterthrush can be found nearly every 150 yards along the fast flowing streams throught the glens, such as at quaint Wolf Creek. Ovenbirds, Black-throated Green, Hooded, Chestnut-Sided, American Redstart and Blackburnian Warblers are regular nesters and hearing them should not be difficult (though seeing them is a different story). Canada, Mourning, Magnolia, Black and White, Yellow-breasted Chat, Yellow-Rumped, Cerulean and Pine Warblers are uncommon nesters, fairly regular and more of a challenge to locate. Rare and irregular nesting species have included Prairie, Golden-Winged, Nashville, Northern Waterthrush, Northern Parula, Black-throated Blue and Prothonotary. Traditionally, the Mary Jemison trail, near the Portageville entrance has been very productive for a wide variety of warblers, as has the Parade Grounds and the Dishmill Creek area just across the gorge.
Warning: A walk anywhere at this end of the park will yield beautiful scenery and the urgency of birding may dissolve in the face of the grandeur.

East Side (the open, grassy fields)

Part of this area is state-owned as part of Letchworth State Park, and part is privately owned. River Road runs from NY Route 408 a few miles south of Mount Morris to NY Route 436 near Portageville. This is a dirt road, out in the middle of nowhere. All of the hay and corn fields and overgrown pasturelands are prime habitat for grassland birds. The farther south one drives, the less developed and more remote it is, which is great for the skulking grassland birds, such as Vesper, Henslow's and Grasshopper Sparrows. Savannah Sparrows, Bobolinks, and Eastern Meadowlark are abundantly found along River Road. Horned Larks are easily found on the road edges in winter, and some spend summers here. An evening walk in Spring might produce American Woodcock and Common Snipe. Upland Sandpiper have not been seen in the last few years, but have been recorded in the past. Eventually, the dirt road becomes a seasonal road and goes through forested habitat near Dishmill Creek.

East Side (Dishmill Creek)

Dishmill Creek is a large tributary to the Genesee River in the gorge and its drainage basin is quite large. The length of the stream offers the possibility of beaver dams and several waterfalls, including the stunning falls near the end where it empties into the Genesee River. Near this junction is an unnamed creek that drains into Dishmill Creek. This creek has a steep waterfall called Heel-hanger Falls, spectacular in its own right. Dishmill Creek harbors several pairs of Louisiana Waterthrush, plus one or two usually resides along Heel-hanger Falls. From the intersection of River Road and Dygert Road, the trail to the west forks. Traverse the right fork for the quickest access to Heel-hanger Falls - a dozen or so species of warblers can usually be tallied down to the falls and back.

The specialty of Dishmill Creek is the several pairs of Acadian Flycatchers that have nested here for several years. But, these are not the only birds to be found here as this bird-rich area has yielded most of the species mentioned above in the West Side (South of the Perry Entrance) section.

The grassy areas on Dygert Road have held Henslow's and Grasshopper Sparrows in recent years. The pines have held Pine Warbler. Prairie Warbler has been recorded in this area on number of occasions.

East Side (Parade Grounds)

No fee is required to enter the Parade Grounds, which is at the south end of the park on the east side of the Genesee River. Doug Bassett, the park naturalist, said that the warbler mapping project has provided details that more warbler species have been recorded on the periphery of the Parade Grounds lawn than in any other part of the park. Because of the diversity of habitat, as many as twenty species of warbler has been recorded within earshot of the lawn in one breeding season (but not all at the same time).

After birding the Parade Grounds area, drive down the hill (North) for a couple hundred yards and park at the trailhead to the Genesee Valley Trail. This is an old rail bed which was built on the towpath of an old canal and provides a very level and easy walk, which extends across River Road near Dishmill (called Lewis's Switch). Although there is some interesting history of that area, the birding can be just as interesting. Some of the regular birds of the area can be seen here. Kentucky Warblers have even been recorded here by a lucky few in the early June migration.

Cartwright's Pond (NY Route 436 marsh)

On NY Route 436, just east of Pennycook Road and River Road is a fair-sized marsh that is Letchworth SP property. The only Marsh Wren to ever be recorded in the park was found here. Virgina Rail and Sora are found here. Waterfowl can be found here in migration and during breeding season. Sometimes shorebirds can be found.

Directions

Located on the Delorme NYS Atlas and Gazetteer on page page 57, blocks C5, D4, D5.

A map that accompanies the following directions to the north entrance is located here (42KB).

North End - Mt. Morris entrance:
Take the Mt. Morris exit (NY Route 408) from the I-390 and follow the road signs. Basically, the route consists of NYS Route 408 west to NYS Rt 36. Turn right at the traffic light and take NYS Route 36 North. Cross over the Genesee River. The next left takes you into the park. Note: there is a small entrance on the east side for overlooking the Mt. Morris dam and is located south off NYS Route 408 just outside Mt.Morris.

South End - Portageville entrance and the Parade Grounds:
Take the Mt. Morris exit (NYS Route 408) from the I-390. Take NYS Route 408 west to NYS Rt 36. Turn left (South) at the traffic light and immediately right at the next light. Stay on NYS Route 408. Travel South for several miles into Nunda. Turn right onto NYS Route 436 at the traffic light. Take NYS Route 436 all the way into Portageville and follow the signs into the Park.

Additionally, NYS Route 436 passes the east side of the gorge entrance (no fee), just opposite the gorge to the Portageville entrance. In here is some cabin areas, a few small overlooks, the Parade Grounds and the backside of the Dishmill Creek area. Birding can be quite good here, but viewing the gorge is best done from the other side (also, no maps are available on this side).

East Side - The grasslands
The east side is undeveloped, and the road signs from the I-390 to Letchworth SP do not indicate this side of the park. To get to River Road from Mount Morris, continue south on NY Route 408 toward the town of Nunda (pronounced Nun-Day; rhymes with Sunday). Once out of the town of Mt. Morris, the dam entrance to the park is seen. Note: there is a lesser-travelled entrance (no fee) on the east side for overlooking the Mt. Morris dam (first right out of Mt Morris onto Damsite Road - open all year, or the second road which is the park entrance - closed in winter). The road can be taken for a quick trip to the edge of the gorge and the dam can be seen. Prairie Warblers have nested near the dam headquarters. On NY 408, take the next right (past the park entrance) onto River Road. From here, travel as far as desired.

Note: The intersection of Oakland Road and River Road is about the end of a normal trip for grassland birds. Continuing further along River Road, it becomes a seasonal road and eventually intersects with Dygert Road (which is the trailhead to Dishmill Creek). All of this area south and east of River Road until NYS Route 436 and Nunda and the I-390 is open grassland and farmlands that are ideal for all the grassland birds. (Warning: the Delorme NYS Atlas and Gazetteer illustrates some 'roads' that are not publicly accessible and are farm paths or no longer exist). Travel any of the side roads to explore the (virtually unexplored) region.

East Side - Dishmill Creek
The east side is undeveloped, and the road signs to Letchworth SP do not indicate this side of the park. To get to River Road from Mount Morris, continue south on NYS Route 408 toward the town of Nunda. Once out of the town of Mt. Morris, on NYS Route 408, take the first right (past the park entrance) onto River Road. From here, travel several miles on the dirt road past the intersection of Oakland Road and River Road. River Road becomes a seasonal road. Continue to the intersection with Dygert Road. The trailhead to Dishmill Creek Trail is here. You will pass the Seneca Trail about midway down the seasonal part of River Road. This trail, as well as the Finger Lakes Trail which parallels River Road, can be quite productive as well.

Nearby Birding

Although this park can more than fill your day, several birding sites exist nearby. Silver Lake is the westernmost Finger Lake (albeit a small one). Waterfowl and such can be found in migration. Adjacent to the park is Livingston County Park. The Retsof area is a few miles to the north off NYS Route 36, and Nations Road is a few miles further. Rattlesnake Hill is a few miles south east of Nunda (which is a few miles east of Portageville on NYS Route 436) and offers interesting possibilities.

To the east of River Road, at the junction of NY Route 436 and NY Route 70 is a large farm. The pond to the east of the barn can often hold a fair variety of waterfowl and even shorebirds. It is worth a quick stop.

Just outside the park is Highbanks Road. Enter the park at the Mount Morris entrance, but do not go into the park. Turn right onto Upper Mt Morris Rd, then left (very quickly) onto Highbanks Road. This road parallels the park road for quite a ways, has deciduous, conifer, berry and thicket habitats. Winters can hold E. Bluebirds, sparrows, woodpeckers, N. Cardinals and on the like on that road.

Facilities

The west side of the park has numerous restroom facilities, which are labelled on the Letchworth map. The east side has restroom facilities at both the damsite and at the Parade Grounds. River Road has no facilities, excepting those used by the bears, as it is undeveloped.

Food might be obtained at the "Highbanks" area in summer, or in any of the nearby towns just outside the park entrances, with "fastfood" being available in Mt Morris.

Other Resources Online

Check out the Letchworth IBA site for some species seen here.

The descriptions/maps to the Letchworth State Park is sponsored by NYS Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation .

This page was last updated on 18 April 2001.

Comments or questions regarding this page should be sent to Webmaster.
Copyright, © Kurt Fox, 1999-2001.
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